Monday, February 25, 2008

Installing Dynamat - Cut Down The Buzz

Another artical from Car Audio Mag. Very useful.

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0704_cae_installing_dynamat/index.html

Installing Dynamat - Cut Down The Buzz

Sound-Deadening Basics
writer: Jefferson Bryant

Nothing ruins a sweet-sounding system more than a trunk that buzzes and doors that rattle. While most cars come with some sort of sound deadening from the factory, it's not up to par with the addition of high-quality audio gear. Along with that, the older the car, the lower the quality of materials used for sound deadening. With the heavy resurgence of muscle cars, this becomes a serious problem.

To solve this issue, Dynamat offers numerous products to fit practically every application. The trick is deciphering which product is best for which application. Each section of a car has its own types of noise and requires specific properties in sound deadening. Floors have different properties than doors, while firewalls need noise and thermal reduction. Before purchasing sound deadening, you need to break it down and choose which areas you are going to deaden and what properties each section requires.

With each section broken down, the choices become simpler. While searching dynamat.com, each type of material is listed with its own dampening characteristics. Some materials are suited for a wide range of applications, such as Dynamat Extreme, which is specifically formulated to reduce road noise and vibrations on virtually all sheet metal.

Other products have specialized properties for specific panels. Dynaliner is a specialized foam pad that blocks heat, reduces wind noise and isolates vibrations, making it the perfect solution for door panels and, when used in conjunction with Dynamat Extreme, floors and firewalls. Dynamat even has Hoodliner, which not only reduces noise, it reflects 97 percent of the radiant heat from the engine to protect the paint.

There are also a few materials to stay away from. Spray-on sound deadeners tend to cause rust as experienced on the 1971 Buick GS convertible project. For this article, the old OE mat and some rust-causing spray-on sound deadening is removed and replaced with Dynamat Extreme and 1/4" Dynaliner. The end result is a solid, noise free ride that will keep the music in and the rattles out.

DoorsWind noise, mechanical rattles and audio vibrationsFloorRoad noise, drivetrain and thermalFirewallThermal, road noise and engine noiseTrunkRoad noise, mechanical rattles and audio vibrationsRear DeckAudio vibrations, mechanical rattlesRoofWind noise and thermal


A few years back, the entire interior sheet metal was covered with a spray-on liquid sound deadener. While it made a slight difference, it wasn't worth the effort or the expense. Add to that the fact that it's water based and resulted in a lot of little rust patches, this stuff is not advisable.
A few years back, the entire interior sheet metal was covered with a spray-on liquid sound deadener. While it made a slight difference, it wasn't worth the effort or the expense. Add to that the fact that it's water based and resulted in a lot of little rust patches, this stuff is not advisable.
Using a paint scraper, some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone, similar to acetone but evaporates slower) and some good ol' elbow grease, the spray-on stuff came off in chunks. It took hours to get the car clean again.
Using a paint scraper, some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone, similar to acetone but evaporates slower) and some good ol' elbow grease, the spray-on stuff came off in chunks. It took hours to get the car clean again.
With the back seat area clean, the rusty areas need some attention. Using a chip brush and some Mar-Hyde One-Step, the rust was converted from body cancer to black oxide primer. On areas like this, the stuff really works and keeps the rust from spreading, which would eventually lead to a floor replacement.
With the back seat area clean, the rusty areas need some attention. Using a chip brush and some Mar-Hyde One-Step, the rust was converted from body cancer to black oxide primer. On areas like this, the stuff really works and keeps the rust from spreading, which would eventually lead to a floor replacement.
The removal of the original mat is a messy proposition. Using a metal spatula, the old mat is scraped off the floor. Sometimes it comes off in small pieces, tearing the paper. In some areas, there isn't enough room to get the scraper under the mat. Cutting the mat down the center provides an easy solution.
The removal of the original mat is a messy proposition. Using a metal spatula, the old mat is scraped off the floor. Sometimes it comes off in small pieces, tearing the paper. In some areas, there isn't enough room to get the scraper under the mat. Cutting the mat down the center provides an easy solution.
This piece came off as a sheet, showing the ineffectiveness of the OE mat.
This piece came off as a sheet, showing the ineffectiveness of the OE mat.
The original firewall jute padding had disintegrated to a mess that always covered the carpet with lint. The padding practically fell off in my hands.
The original firewall jute padding had disintegrated to a mess that always covered the carpet with lint. The padding practically fell off in my hands.
The factory used a little spray adhesive to hold the jute pad under the dash. The scraper made quick work of removing it.
The factory used a little spray adhesive to hold the jute pad under the dash. The scraper made quick work of removing it.
The entire floor pan gets vacuumed so the new mat will stick to the floor and not the dirt and sand. The final step before applying the Dynamat is wiping everything down with MEK to clean the metal of old adhesive and grease so the new adhesive sticks.
The entire floor pan gets vacuumed so the new mat will stick to the floor and not the dirt and sand. The final step before applying the Dynamat is wiping everything down with MEK to clean the metal of old adhesive and grease so the new adhesive sticks.
The Dynamat is available in project kits or bulk packs. Shown here are a door kit for two doors, a trunk kit and a bulk kit. The bulk kit is for the floor and contains nine pre-cut sheets totaling 36ft2 of mat.
The Dynamat is available in project kits or bulk packs. Shown here are a door kit for two doors, a trunk kit and a bulk kit. The bulk kit is for the floor and contains nine pre-cut sheets totaling 36ft2 of mat.


Saturday, February 23, 2008

FishCamp Custom Streering Wheel - Steering Clear

Here is another article from Car Audio Magazine

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/caep_0603_how_to_use_acrylic/index.html

FishCamp Custom Streering Wheel - Steering Clear

Tricks Of The Trade
writer: Russell Balazs

You can learn all the techniques used to construct this custom steering wheel at FishCamp, the advanced skills and technique course that Rivera teaches at the Installer Institute. All the materials, as well as Fishman's product line, can be purchased from The Install Bay catalog, available by visiting www.metraonline.com.

If you've been around the car audio scene at all then you know Dave "Fishman" Rivera and his fantastical creations. The man who made his name by installing a fish tank in some of his system designs is also known for his advanced skills using liquid acrylic. Here he provides readers with a how-to for a customized steering wheel which will be featured in the Metra Ford SUV project he's been working on the past year. Look for the story next month.


An enthusiastic Rivera about to tackle a stock steering wheel.
An enthusiastic Rivera about to tackle a stock steering wheel.
First, start off by making a rough sketch of half the wheel on a piece of 1/2
First, start off by making a rough sketch of half the wheel on a piece of 1/2" MDF.
Use spray-on contact adhesive to adhere the template to a piece of 1
Use spray-on contact adhesive to adhere the template to a piece of 1" acrylic.
The 1
The 1" acrylic is the basis for the new steering wheel. The next step is making the aluminum inserts.
Here's the fun part-liquid acrylic casting resin, a.k.a.
Here's the fun part-liquid acrylic casting resin, a.k.a. "liquid plexi." This product allows you to embed whatever you want into acrylic.
After the liquid acrylic cures, it is solid acrylic, which can be ground, sanded and buffed.
After the liquid acrylic cures, it is solid acrylic, which can be ground, sanded and buffed.
Here's the steering wheel buffed and polished.
Here's the steering wheel buffed and polished.
A suede-wrapped air bag finishes off this project-Fishman styling while retaining factory controls and air bag! It's the ultimate steering wheel.
A suede-wrapped air bag finishes off this project-Fishman styling while retaining factory controls and air bag! It's the ultimate steering wheel.

HOW TO INSTALL DUAL ALTERNATORS

This article is from Car Audio Magazine. It show you how to install dual alternators so that you don't loose power due to the sound system that you have in your trunk.

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0206cae_dual_alternator/index.html

Dual Alternator

Pound Harder... Last Longer!!!
By Duane Uyeda

Finding it difficult to find pounding power? Need long lasting stamina? Are you finding it difficult to play as long as you really want to? Don't call your doctor, forget the prescriptions; we have the answer to your vehicle's power starvation problems. (What did you think we were talking about??)

With the complexity of today's vehicle electrical systems and critical engine management computers, the addition of aftermarket accessories which we all find so fun to have brings forth a very strong question; will my alternator and battery be able to handle everything? It is not uncommon to find vehicles with airbag suspensions on board, or pavement pounding audio systems, or both, in many of our rides today. With the amount of power everything requires to operate properly, many factory electrical systems cannot supply the current demand of these aftermarket features. What if you had a separate charging system strictly for the compressors, amplifiers, and all other power-sucking goodies? This would leave your factory electrical system otherwise untouched, completely isolated from everything else, letting it do the important things like make your vehicle run. After all, the last thing anyone wants to do is replace the costly engine computer.

We found this new dual alternator and battery kit from Dave's DC Electric. This kit utilizes either a secondary factory alternator, or if needed, a highly dependable, high output model. Now we're talking... two separate alternators, two separate batteries... let the fun begin! Follow along as we show you the installation of this kit, and see just how simple and factory it looks under the hood. The addition of more power never was better than this!


Quality tools for a quality job! These are the basic tools which will be used to install the dual alternator kit PROPERLY! Even more important than proper tools is the experience of the hands; Dave's DC Electric prides upon many years of experience in the automotive electrical field.
Quality tools for a quality job! These are the basic tools which will be used to install the dual alternator kit PROPERLY! Even more important than proper tools is the experience of the hands; Dave's DC Electric prides upon many years of experience in the automotive electrical field.
The dual alternator kit from Dave's DC Electric. This kit includes 100% new parts; the 160 amp alternator, necessary brackets, hardware, drive belt, wire harness, and relay circuit. Unlike other companies on the market, Dave's provides very detailed instructions, as well as pre-installation and post-installation checklists to ensure proper operation. Dave's makes it as simple as possible for a moderately skilled mechanic to perform this installation.
The dual alternator kit from Dave's DC Electric. This kit includes 100% new parts; the 160 amp alternator, necessary brackets, hardware, drive belt, wire harness, and relay circuit. Unlike other companies on the market, Dave's provides very detailed instructions, as well as pre-installation and post-installation checklists to ensure proper operation. Dave's makes it as simple as possible for a moderately skilled mechanic to perform this installation.
The air horn is being removed from the throttle body in order to gain access to the drive belt for the factory alternator. Next, remove the upper plastic engine shroud from the motor. Once the top shroud is removed, the driver's side engine shroud can then be removed for slight modifications later.
The air horn is being removed from the throttle body in order to gain access to the drive belt for the factory alternator. Next, remove the upper plastic engine shroud from the motor. Once the top shroud is removed, the driver's side engine shroud can then be removed for slight modifications later.
Once the spring-loaded tensioner is loosened, the belt is easily removed from the pulleys.
Once the spring-loaded tensioner is loosened, the belt is easily removed from the pulleys.
When the belt is removed, the bottom right foot alternator bolt can be removed. This will allow you to rotate the alternator upward to make room for the secondary alternator.
When the belt is removed, the bottom right foot alternator bolt can be removed. This will allow you to rotate the alternator upward to make room for the secondary alternator.
Using the supplied brackets and hardware in the kit, the secondary alternator can now find a new home under the hood! Notice how the bracket ties the two alternators together; the lower mount of the second alternator finds its mount within the factory alternator mount cradle. Rest assured that Dave's kit uses the highest quality materials for the modifications.
Using the supplied brackets and hardware in the kit, the secondary alternator can now find a new home under the hood! Notice how the bracket ties the two alternators together; the lower mount of the second alternator finds its mount within the factory alternator mount cradle. Rest assured that Dave's kit uses the highest quality materials for the modifications.
Remember that driver's side engine shroud we removed earlier? It's now time to shave off the front mounting tab to allow clearance for the secondary alternator. Losing this tab will not affect integrity of this cover, because not only are the remaining mounting tabs still in tact, but it becomes structurally rigid once the upper engine shroud is replaced and secured to the motor.
Remember that driver's side engine shroud we removed earlier? It's now time to shave off the front mounting tab to allow clearance for the secondary alternator. Losing this tab will not affect integrity of this cover, because not only are the remaining mounting tabs still in tact, but it becomes structurally rigid once the upper engine shroud is replaced and secured to the motor.
Voila! Here is the result of the installation phase. Once the engine shrouds are replaced, and all mounting bolts to the alternators and mounts are tightened, the new belt can be routed on the pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the belt tensioner once everything is in place, and replace the air horn onto the throttle body. When you take a step back to marvel at your labors, this is what you should be looking at.
Voila! Here is the result of the installation phase. Once the engine shrouds are replaced, and all mounting bolts to the alternators and mounts are tightened, the new belt can be routed on the pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the belt tensioner once everything is in place, and replace the air horn onto the throttle body. When you take a step back to marvel at your labors, this is what you should be looking at.
Don't take too long a break, because it's now time to make room for the secondary battery! This photo shows the location where the battery tray will be installed, just behind the engine coolant reservoir. The curved metal bracket you see attaching the fender to the cowl will be removed, and the battery tray mounts in the pocket area above the inner wheel well next to the fender. The Odyssey battery is retained on the tray with a supplied hold-down bracket.
Don't take too long a break, because it's now time to make room for the secondary battery! This photo shows the location where the battery tray will be installed, just behind the engine coolant reservoir. The curved metal bracket you see attaching the fender to the cowl will be removed, and the battery tray mounts in the pocket area above the inner wheel well next to the fender. The Odyssey battery is retained on the tray with a supplied hold-down bracket.
With the secondary battery in place, the alternator can now be wired to it for charging duties. Wiring the relay seen here will not only activate the alternator once the motor is running, but also isolate the two charging systems. This is critical, because you cannot have two separate alternators sharing charging duties within themselves.
With the secondary battery in place, the alternator can now be wired to it for charging duties. Wiring the relay seen here will not only activate the alternator once the motor is running, but also isolate the two charging systems. This is critical, because you cannot have two separate alternators sharing charging duties within themselves.
The relay can be mounted in any fashion, but here it is mounted directly to the firewall of the engine compartment. Dave uses 4-gauge power and ground cables to carry current from the secondary alternator to its battery. Notice how he routes and secures all wiring away from critical areas under the hood. Not only is this a good safety measure, it will promote many years of maintenance-free usage of your new charging system.
The relay can be mounted in any fashion, but here it is mounted directly to the firewall of the engine compartment. Dave uses 4-gauge power and ground cables to carry current from the secondary alternator to its battery. Notice how he routes and secures all wiring away from critical areas under the hood. Not only is this a good safety measure, it will promote many years of maintenance-free usage of your new charging system.
After double checking all installation points, it is now time to test it all out. Dave is quick to point out that both the primary and secondary batteries must be fully charged before the engine can be started. If not, the charging systems will show inaccurate readings, complicating the final process. With the motor running, a quick check of the digital multimeter shows the output of the secondary alternator at 14.74 volts. Perfecto! Again, a detailed post-installation checklist is provided by Dave's DC to help ensure that your newly installed charging system is working properly. This really takes the guesswork out of the testing phase.
After double checking all installation points, it is now time to test it all out. Dave is quick to point out that both the primary and secondary batteries must be fully charged before the engine can be started. If not, the charging systems will show inaccurate readings, complicating the final process. With the motor running, a quick check of the digital multimeter shows the output of the secondary alternator at 14.74 volts. Perfecto! Again, a detailed post-installation checklist is provided by Dave's DC to help ensure that your newly installed charging system is working properly. This really takes the guesswork out of the testing phase.

HOW TO INSTALL A SUNROOF

Here is an article from Lowrider Edge. This article will give you detailed information on how to install a sunroof in a car that doesn't have one.

Artical Address: http://www.lowrideredge.com/tech/0109lre_installing_sunroof/
The stock steel roof on our Project Sentra SE was replaced with an electric sliding ragtop from Street Beat Customs in just more than three hours.
The sunroof comes complete with everything that you'll need (except tools) to make quick work of the installation. Before beginning, check the completeness of the sunroof package using the provided parts list.
Then, locate, mark and tape the proper position for the roof cutout template.
Position the template flat against the roof and tape it making sure it's straight and there are no creases.

How To: Ragtop
Let the Sunshine in Project Sentra

By Dick DeLoach
Photography: Dick DeLoach

Everybody loves a convertible, but they're not always affordable from the factory, and if you happen to want/need a four-door instead of a coupe (like our Project Nissan Sentra SE) they're just not available period! Therefore, the only solution to letting the sunshine in is adding a sunroof.

Street Beat's new electric folding ragtop makes it simple.

The stock steel roof on our Project Sentra SE (left) was replaced with an electric sliding ragtop from Street Beat Customs in just more than three hours.

There are several nice "Euro-style" sliding glass sunroofs available for an open-air feel. However, nothing comes closer to a real convertible than a huge 35x42-inch electric sliding ragtop roof, available from Street Beat Customs (in Phoenix, Arizona). The vinyl fabric roof, opening with both manual and electric power options, features classic European design updated to provide OEM quality and a convertible feel for modern cars.

Street Beat offers an exclusive line of their own and world-famous Inalfa sunroofs (ragtop and sliding glass) that fit most vehicles and include complete do-it-yourself installation instructions, all mounting hardware, interior trim panels and electricals. The kit even includes a full-size paper template to show you exactly where to drill and cut the metal roof. The ragtop also has a terrific safety feature that stops the roof from closing if there is an obstruction in the opening, like your dog's head or your child's hand.

A few power tools are needed for the installation, including an electric drill, heavy duty sabre saw or a "nibbler," which is what we used for cutting the roof sheet metal and roof ribs and an electric die grinder. Nothing that can't be bought at the average tool store or rented. A couple of screwdrivers and wrenches are required as well.

We took our Sentra to Sounds, Suspension & More in Montclair, California, where Dave Jelen and owner "Bear" made quick work of the installation. Actually, it took a little more than three hours from start to finish, and these men are professionals. The kit went in easily, and the instructions were very thorough. The interior trim panels make the install look clean, but you can also "soft wrap" the headliner around the trim for more of a "factory" look to the roof (detailed instructions for that are also included). Follow the photos now as we show you how to let the sunshine in the easy way.

Using a single-edge blade, carefully cut out the area of the paper template for the roof cut and draw the cut outline on the roof metal with a marking pen.
Drill the six holes as marked on the front of the template for the wind deflector, making sure not to damage the inside roof lining. Note: a "bit stop" can be used for safety.
Drill a "pilot hole" for the nibbler (or heavy duty sabre saw) inside the outline on the roof.
Using a nibbler or sabre saw carefully cut out the metal roof along the outline. Note: a die grinder can also be used to cut out the metal roof..
Carefully peel the roof metal away from the roof ribs and properly discard it.
This is what the roof looks like with the metal cut out. No turning back now!
Next the roof ribs must be cut out along the edge of the roof metal and removed.
Unplug and remove the interior light next.
Mark the hard headliner using the roof metal as a guide.
Using a razor knife, carefully cut out the hard headliner to match the roof cutout.
On the inside, lay 3/4-inch tape around the edge of the hard headliner as a guide and cut out the headliner along the outer edge of the tape, thus making the inside headliner cutout 3/4-inch larger than the roof metal cutout.
Use the die grinder or sabre saw to cut the ribs 3/4-inch smaller than the roof cutout as well.
Then grind off the edges of the roof cutout to remove any burrs.
Apply the protective foil strips, without creases, flush with the cutout edge of the roof, starting with the front strip. Then place the side strips flush with the cutout edge, overlapping with the front edge of the strip that has already been applied.
Place the wind deflector in the holes drilled earlier.
Using the special sealing washers and nuts provided, attach the wind deflector but do not tighten the nuts yet.
Carefully drop the sunroof into the cutout being careful not to dent the roof metal. Also make sure that the sealing rubber is correctly seated on the frame edge as this cannot be corrected after fitting.
Remove the "A" pillar cap and route sunroof motor wiring down the pillar and under the dash. Later, you will connect the wires to a verified constant 12-volt source and the ignition per wiring instructions.
Remove the two retaining screws from the motor unit on the frame and make sure that the motor can be slid in between the outer roof skin and the inside lining. Caution: Don't kink the black end tubes for the drive cables.
Push the front clamp frame part in place and put the motor fastening screws in.
Put the rear clamp frame part on and screw in one each of the enclosed nuts onto the stay bolts. Then push the frame sides on. Attach with screws provided all the way around. Note: Do not place any screws into holes with labels stuck on them because the supports for the trim frame are fastened in those holes.
Place the supports in position with the upwardly flanged nose of the support engaging the gap between the mainframe and the clamping frame, attach with the fastening screws and tighten equally.
Connect the operating switch to the wiring loom and make sure that it works. Close the roof, adjust the wind deflector as needed and tighten the wind deflector nuts.
Fit the front trim cover, guiding the wire for the operating switch through the opening provided.
With the roof fully open, fit the side and rear trim covers in place and attach them with the push-in fasteners provided.
Beginning in the middle at the rear, attach the edge protection (pinch welting) all the way around and trim the excess with wire cutting pliers.
The finished installation looks almost factory and opens up to let the sunshine in our Sentra.