And now for the conclusion....
From Honda Tuning Magazine
Written by Robert Young
Original Post:http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0807_honda_check_engine_light_help_cel_idiot_light_go_away/index.html
It's important to note that even after repairs have been made you'll need to reset the ECU. This can be done on early models by disconnecting the battery's negative terminal for 10 seconds or by removing the battery's backup fuse from underneath the hood. Be sure to remove the jumper wire (if used) when you're done. Many newer vehicles require a specialized scan tool to reset the ECU.
CODE SYSTEM INDICATED
0 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE
1 OXYGEN SENSOR
3 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR
4 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
6 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
7 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
8 TOP DEAD CENTER POSITION SENSOR
9 NUMBER ONE CYLINDER POSITION SENSOR
10 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
12 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM
13 BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR
14 IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
15 IGNITION OUTPUT SIGNAL
16 FUEL INJECTOR
17 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
20 ELECTRICAL LOAD DETECTOR
21 VTEC SOLENOID VALVE
22 VTEC PRESSURE SWITCH
23 KNOCK SENSOR
43 FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
41 HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER
Monday, January 19, 2009
Friday, January 16, 2009
Is Your Check Engine Light on? Part I
Okay. This one is for all of you Honda owners out there. This article is from Honda Tuning Magazine. The best magazine for Honda owners.
Is you check engine light on? Don't have cash to find out whats wrong. Never you worry... Here's a guide that will help.
Written By Robert Young
Original Page:http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0807_honda_check_engine_light_help_cel_idiot_light_go_away/index.html
*Only Going to be posting half of the article. Will post what the codes mean in another article. Hopefully sometime the weekend.
Most '88-'91 Chassis:
Do you have a check-engine light lit up, glowing in your face? Find out what the deal is by turning the ignition to the on position (don't start the engine), pull down the passenger-side carpet from below the dashboard, and observe the LED on top of the electronic control unit (ECU). The LED indicates system failure codes through intermittent blinks. It can convey any number of simultaneous component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Simply count the blinks and add the digits. Long blinks represent the number 10 while quick blinks count as one. For example, code 14 consists of one long blink followed by four quick blinks. The blinking procedure is the same for all years and isn't specific to the '88-'91 chassis.
Most '92-'95 Chassis:
When the check-engine light comes on, locate the two-pin connector (service check connector) underneath the dash, making sure not to grab the three-pin connector (data link connector), which can be easily distinguished by its, well, three pins. The connectors are located behind the passenger-side kick panel. Jump the two terminals with a scrap piece of wire or paper clip and turn the ignition switch to the on position. As with the '88-'91 ECU, the MIL indicates codes by blink length and quantity, however, the MIL light on the gauge cluster blinks since OBD-I ECUs don't feature built-in ECU LEDs. Similar to the '88-'91 chassis, codes one through nine are indicated by individual short blinks while codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit while the number of short blinks equals the second.
Most '96-Present Chassis:
There are a couple of ways to read codes on '96 and newer, OBD-II-equipped vehicles: You need a scan tool for many newer models that connect to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), however, early OBD-II-equipped Civics and Integras will allow you to do the old paper clip trick like you can with previous chassis. The DLC can be located several different places depending on the model. Simply look underneath the steering column where you'll find a label indicating the DLC location. Connect the scan tool to the DLC to get results. The scan tool will give you a code indicating what you'll be spending your next paycheck on.
Is you check engine light on? Don't have cash to find out whats wrong. Never you worry... Here's a guide that will help.
Written By Robert Young
Original Page:http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0807_honda_check_engine_light_help_cel_idiot_light_go_away/index.html
*Only Going to be posting half of the article. Will post what the codes mean in another article. Hopefully sometime the weekend.
Most '88-'91 Chassis:
Do you have a check-engine light lit up, glowing in your face? Find out what the deal is by turning the ignition to the on position (don't start the engine), pull down the passenger-side carpet from below the dashboard, and observe the LED on top of the electronic control unit (ECU). The LED indicates system failure codes through intermittent blinks. It can convey any number of simultaneous component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Simply count the blinks and add the digits. Long blinks represent the number 10 while quick blinks count as one. For example, code 14 consists of one long blink followed by four quick blinks. The blinking procedure is the same for all years and isn't specific to the '88-'91 chassis.
Most '92-'95 Chassis:
When the check-engine light comes on, locate the two-pin connector (service check connector) underneath the dash, making sure not to grab the three-pin connector (data link connector), which can be easily distinguished by its, well, three pins. The connectors are located behind the passenger-side kick panel. Jump the two terminals with a scrap piece of wire or paper clip and turn the ignition switch to the on position. As with the '88-'91 ECU, the MIL indicates codes by blink length and quantity, however, the MIL light on the gauge cluster blinks since OBD-I ECUs don't feature built-in ECU LEDs. Similar to the '88-'91 chassis, codes one through nine are indicated by individual short blinks while codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit while the number of short blinks equals the second.
Most '96-Present Chassis:
There are a couple of ways to read codes on '96 and newer, OBD-II-equipped vehicles: You need a scan tool for many newer models that connect to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), however, early OBD-II-equipped Civics and Integras will allow you to do the old paper clip trick like you can with previous chassis. The DLC can be located several different places depending on the model. Simply look underneath the steering column where you'll find a label indicating the DLC location. Connect the scan tool to the DLC to get results. The scan tool will give you a code indicating what you'll be spending your next paycheck on.
The Tuner Commandments
This has got to be one of the funniest things that I have ever read. It's TRUE. Heed every word.
Original Page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2609216
THE TUNER TEN COMMANDMENTS
1. Thou shalt not place an overly large rear downforce wing on a front wheel drive car. i.e. triple decker aluminum wings are always a no no.
2. Thou shalt not race every vehicle on the road.
3. Thou shalt not put more than one color of neon lighting on the same car at the same time.
4. Thou shalt not put vinyl graphics on a stock car.
5. Thou shalt not drive around for two years with an unpainted body kit.
6. Thou shalt not drive with more than one style wheel on the car (unless you're at the drag strip or happened to get a flat tire)
7. Thou shalt not place stickers on a car of products not installed on that car, and stickers, no matter how cool you think they are, do not add horsepower.
8. Thou shalt not strip the interior out of a street car in an attempt to go faster, your 16 second car won't notice if you lose the 50 pounds of passenger and rear seats.
9. Thou shalt not make crazy horsepower claims from an un-built car. Your intake and exhaust didn't take your single cam to 200 horsepower.
10. Thou shalt not ever claim to be the fastest around, remember, there's always somebody faster; whether you know it or not.
Original Page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2609216
THE TUNER TEN COMMANDMENTS
1. Thou shalt not place an overly large rear downforce wing on a front wheel drive car. i.e. triple decker aluminum wings are always a no no.
2. Thou shalt not race every vehicle on the road.
3. Thou shalt not put more than one color of neon lighting on the same car at the same time.
4. Thou shalt not put vinyl graphics on a stock car.
5. Thou shalt not drive around for two years with an unpainted body kit.
6. Thou shalt not drive with more than one style wheel on the car (unless you're at the drag strip or happened to get a flat tire)
7. Thou shalt not place stickers on a car of products not installed on that car, and stickers, no matter how cool you think they are, do not add horsepower.
8. Thou shalt not strip the interior out of a street car in an attempt to go faster, your 16 second car won't notice if you lose the 50 pounds of passenger and rear seats.
9. Thou shalt not make crazy horsepower claims from an un-built car. Your intake and exhaust didn't take your single cam to 200 horsepower.
10. Thou shalt not ever claim to be the fastest around, remember, there's always somebody faster; whether you know it or not.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Ways to go Faster Part II
Wow... It's been almost six months since I've posted something on this blog. Sorry to anyone who is reading this. I've been extremely busy with school and haven't had much time to post on this blog. Anyway here is the continuation to Part I:
Expensive Mods:
Turbo/Super Charger: Both of these systems work on a similar concept. They are used to increase the amount of air that is taken into the engine by compressing the air that is being taken into the engine. In comparison to a cold air or short ram intake system there is a dramatic increase in the amount of power that is produce. In most car applications a turbo charge can lead to a 30 to 50 percent increase in horsepower. A short ram intake is used because it does not require as much space as a cold air intake. Another reason is the fact that the air will be heating up and then cooled as it enters the intercooler. So there isn’t a need for cold air being taken in thorough the blower.
There are only a few differences between them. The turbo was original used in air craft to increase the amount of oxygen that was being taken into the engine. Another major difference is the fact that the super charger provides a large amount of power at low engine speeds while losing power when engine rotation exceeds about five thousand RPM. A turbo charger does the exact opposite. It produces low power at low engine speeds but produces large amounts of power once engine rotation exceeds about 2500 RPM. Yet another difference between a turbo charger and a super charger is the fact that a super charger is belt driven which means that it relies on the engine to produce the energy needed to turn the blower to create compression. This decreases the overall amount of power produced by the engine up to 30 percent.
Before adding a turbo or supercharger there are some major modification that must be done to the engine. These modifications consist of remapping the electronic control unit, relocating certain engine components, fabricating mounting brackets, installing a boost controller, and adding larger fuel injectors. Remapping the electronic control unit is essential because it will effect how the car will perform over all. It determines how long the intake valve will be open during the intake stroke, the amount of fuel injected, as well as how long the spark will last during the combustion stroke. Relocating certain components is essential when adding a turbo or super chargers. It is essential because space must freed for the additional piping needed to connect the blower and intercooler to the engine. A component that is commonly moved during installation is the battery. Mounting brackets need to be fabricated to house the relocated equipment. Larger fuel injectors are required to keep the engine from running lean. One of the most important modifications that must be preformed when adding a turbo or supercharger is installing a boost controller. A boost controller controls the amount of air taken into the engine to prevent a loss of power and running lean. A boost controller takes control of the waste gate to reduce the amount of turbo lag. It also allows greater control over the amount of air being taken into the engine. This means better response when the throttle is applied. With better control over the intake prevents detonation also known as knocking. Detonation can severely damage an engine and render it unreliable or useless.
Engine Swap:If none of these other methods work for You, you may want to try an engine swap.
*All of the information came from my research paper known as Power and Efficiency. I'll post the paper some time this month hopefully.
Expensive Mods:
Turbo/Super Charger: Both of these systems work on a similar concept. They are used to increase the amount of air that is taken into the engine by compressing the air that is being taken into the engine. In comparison to a cold air or short ram intake system there is a dramatic increase in the amount of power that is produce. In most car applications a turbo charge can lead to a 30 to 50 percent increase in horsepower. A short ram intake is used because it does not require as much space as a cold air intake. Another reason is the fact that the air will be heating up and then cooled as it enters the intercooler. So there isn’t a need for cold air being taken in thorough the blower.
There are only a few differences between them. The turbo was original used in air craft to increase the amount of oxygen that was being taken into the engine. Another major difference is the fact that the super charger provides a large amount of power at low engine speeds while losing power when engine rotation exceeds about five thousand RPM. A turbo charger does the exact opposite. It produces low power at low engine speeds but produces large amounts of power once engine rotation exceeds about 2500 RPM. Yet another difference between a turbo charger and a super charger is the fact that a super charger is belt driven which means that it relies on the engine to produce the energy needed to turn the blower to create compression. This decreases the overall amount of power produced by the engine up to 30 percent.
Before adding a turbo or supercharger there are some major modification that must be done to the engine. These modifications consist of remapping the electronic control unit, relocating certain engine components, fabricating mounting brackets, installing a boost controller, and adding larger fuel injectors. Remapping the electronic control unit is essential because it will effect how the car will perform over all. It determines how long the intake valve will be open during the intake stroke, the amount of fuel injected, as well as how long the spark will last during the combustion stroke. Relocating certain components is essential when adding a turbo or super chargers. It is essential because space must freed for the additional piping needed to connect the blower and intercooler to the engine. A component that is commonly moved during installation is the battery. Mounting brackets need to be fabricated to house the relocated equipment. Larger fuel injectors are required to keep the engine from running lean. One of the most important modifications that must be preformed when adding a turbo or supercharger is installing a boost controller. A boost controller controls the amount of air taken into the engine to prevent a loss of power and running lean. A boost controller takes control of the waste gate to reduce the amount of turbo lag. It also allows greater control over the amount of air being taken into the engine. This means better response when the throttle is applied. With better control over the intake prevents detonation also known as knocking. Detonation can severely damage an engine and render it unreliable or useless.
Engine Swap:If none of these other methods work for You, you may want to try an engine swap.
*All of the information came from my research paper known as Power and Efficiency. I'll post the paper some time this month hopefully.
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