Another artical from Car Audio Mag. Very useful.

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0704_cae_installing_dynamat/index.html

Installing Dynamat - Cut Down The Buzz

Sound-Deadening Basics

writer: Jefferson Bryant

Nothing ruins a sweet-sounding system more than a trunk that buzzes and doors that rattle. While most cars come with some sort of sound deadening from the factory, it's not up to par with the addition of high-quality audio gear. Along with that, the older the car, the lower the quality of materials used for sound deadening. With the heavy resurgence of muscle cars, this becomes a serious problem.

To solve this issue, Dynamat offers numerous products to fit practically every application. The trick is deciphering which product is best for which application. Each section of a car has its own types of noise and requires specific properties in sound deadening. Floors have different properties than doors, while firewalls need noise and thermal reduction. Before purchasing sound deadening, you need to break it down and choose which areas you are going to deaden and what properties each section requires.

With each section broken down, the choices become simpler. While searching dynamat.com, each type of material is listed with its own dampening characteristics. Some materials are suited for a wide range of applications, such as Dynamat Extreme, which is specifically formulated to reduce road noise and vibrations on virtually all sheet metal.

Other products have specialized properties for specific panels. Dynaliner is a specialized foam pad that blocks heat, reduces wind noise and isolates vibrations, making it the perfect solution for door panels and, when used in conjunction with Dynamat Extreme, floors and firewalls. Dynamat even has Hoodliner, which not only reduces noise, it reflects 97 percent of the radiant heat from the engine to protect the paint.

There are also a few materials to stay away from. Spray-on sound deadeners tend to cause rust as experienced on the 1971 Buick GS convertible project. For this article, the old OE mat and some rust-causing spray-on sound deadening is removed and replaced with Dynamat Extreme and 1/4" Dynaliner. The end result is a solid, noise free ride that will keep the music in and the rattles out.

DoorsWind noise, mechanical rattles and audio vibrationsFloorRoad noise, drivetrain and thermalFirewallThermal, road noise and engine noiseTrunkRoad noise, mechanical rattles and audio vibrationsRear DeckAudio vibrations, mechanical rattlesRoofWind noise and thermal

A few years back, the entire interior sheet metal was covered with a spray-on liquid sound deadener. While it made a slight difference, it wasn't worth the effort or the expense. Add to that the fact that it's water based and resulted in a lot of little rust patches, this stuff is not advisable.	Using a paint scraper, some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone, similar to acetone but evaporates slower) and some good ol' elbow grease, the spray-on stuff came off in chunks. It took hours to get the car clean again.	With the back seat area clean, the rusty areas need some attention. Using a chip brush and some Mar-Hyde One-Step, the rust was converted from body cancer to black oxide primer. On areas like this, the stuff really works and keeps the rust from spreading, which would eventually lead to a floor replacement.
The removal of the original mat is a messy proposition. Using a metal spatula, the old mat is scraped off the floor. Sometimes it comes off in small pieces, tearing the paper. In some areas, there isn't enough room to get the scraper under the mat. Cutting the mat down the center provides an easy solution.	This piece came off as a sheet, showing the ineffectiveness of the OE mat.	The original firewall jute padding had disintegrated to a mess that always covered the carpet with lint. The padding practically fell off in my hands.
The factory used a little spray adhesive to hold the jute pad under the dash. The scraper made quick work of removing it.	The entire floor pan gets vacuumed so the new mat will stick to the floor and not the dirt and sand. The final step before applying the Dynamat is wiping everything down with MEK to clean the metal of old adhesive and grease so the new adhesive sticks.	The Dynamat is available in project kits or bulk packs. Shown here are a door kit for two doors, a trunk kit and a bulk kit. The bulk kit is for the floor and contains nine pre-cut sheets totaling 36ft2 of mat.

While Dynamat Xtreme does not require heat like some products, laying it outside in the sun does make it a little more flexible.	First a sheet of Dynamat on the floor for fitting. This piece fits great, so it won't be cut down. The paper backing is removed after test fitting the sheet in the floor. The adhesive is ridiculously sticky, so wearing old clothes is advised.	The mat has a foil back, so it conforms to the corners and corrugations of the floor pan.
Using a rubber roller, the mat is pressed into the crevices and corners of the floor. This step is crucial to achieving proper sound dampening and adhesion.	The tranny hump presents its own obstacles. A sheet of trimmed mat is laid over the hump with the paper still in place.	Using a razor knife, the mat is trimmed in several places to create a pattern for the hump.
With the paper removed, the mat is applied and given the roller treatment. Anything more than 75 percent coverage is adequate for proper sound deadening. Notice how the section behind this mount for the console is left bare. This assures that the console will fit properly and the section cut out is re-used directly behind it.	When covering the floor pan, the wire chase running to the rear of the car needs attention. Using the rubber roller, the mat was pressed into the channel. The mat is cut away from the factory metal tabs that hold the wire loom in place.	The wire loom lays down in the chase just like normal, keeping the carpet flat without lumps.
Since this is a convertible, the rear seat support tray desperately needs sound dampening. The factory didn't pay any attention to this part of the car and after 35 years, it rattles quite a bit. This is a no-waste operation, any mat removed from a sheet should be used elsewhere.	The seat belt holes get covered during the installation. A razor makes quick work of the mat to uncover the bolt holes.	The entire floor looks like a foil doggy bag. The foil backing helps reject heat, making the interior a cooler place to ride.
The doors have their own vices. The outer skins buzz, rattle and induce wind noise. A few well-placed sheets of Dynamat cure that problem. Sliding the sheets in through the window opening is simple enough. The door skin should be wiped clean before hand.	Once the sheet is in place, the paper backing is removed and the rubber roller comes out again, pressing the mat in place.	The outer panel of the door is home to the window cranks and regulator, two sources of rattles. The mat serves its purpose well here.
Using the edge of the roller to get into the creases maximizes the effectiveness of the Dynamat. Leaving the edges and corners rounded (and not square) limit its capabilities.	The final step in sound deadening the GS is the Dynaliner. This 1/4" foam product rejects heat and wind noise.	The foam pad installs just like the other mat; however, it is easily cut with scissors.
The Dynaliner conforms to the car very well and really makes a difference in wind noise.

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Here is another article from Car Audio Magazine

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/caep_0603_how_to_use_acrylic/index.html

FishCamp Custom Streering Wheel - Steering Clear

Tricks Of The Trade

writer: Russell Balazs

You can learn all the techniques used to construct this custom steering wheel at FishCamp, the advanced skills and technique course that Rivera teaches at the Installer Institute. All the materials, as well as Fishman's product line, can be purchased from The Install Bay catalog, available by visiting www.metraonline.com.

If you've been around the car audio scene at all then you know Dave "Fishman" Rivera and his fantastical creations. The man who made his name by installing a fish tank in some of his system designs is also known for his advanced skills using liquid acrylic. Here he provides readers with a how-to for a customized steering wheel which will be featured in the Metra Ford SUV project he's been working on the past year. Look for the story next month.

An enthusiastic Rivera about to tackle a stock steering wheel.	First, start off by making a rough sketch of half the wheel on a piece of 1/2" MDF.	Use spray-on contact adhesive to adhere the template to a piece of 1" acrylic.
The 1" acrylic is the basis for the new steering wheel. The next step is making the aluminum inserts.	Here's the fun part-liquid acrylic casting resin, a.k.a. "liquid plexi." This product allows you to embed whatever you want into acrylic.	After the liquid acrylic cures, it is solid acrylic, which can be ground, sanded and buffed.
Here's the steering wheel buffed and polished.	A suede-wrapped air bag finishes off this project-Fishman styling while retaining factory controls and air bag! It's the ultimate steering wheel.

HOW TO INSTALL DUAL ALTERNATORS

This article is from Car Audio Magazine. It show you how to install dual alternators so that you don't loose power due to the sound system that you have in your trunk.

Article Address: http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0206cae_dual_alternator/index.html

Dual Alternator

Pound Harder... Last Longer!!!

By Duane Uyeda

Finding it difficult to find pounding power? Need long lasting stamina? Are you finding it difficult to play as long as you really want to? Don't call your doctor, forget the prescriptions; we have the answer to your vehicle's power starvation problems. (What did you think we were talking about??)

With the complexity of today's vehicle electrical systems and critical engine management computers, the addition of aftermarket accessories which we all find so fun to have brings forth a very strong question; will my alternator and battery be able to handle everything? It is not uncommon to find vehicles with airbag suspensions on board, or pavement pounding audio systems, or both, in many of our rides today. With the amount of power everything requires to operate properly, many factory electrical systems cannot supply the current demand of these aftermarket features. What if you had a separate charging system strictly for the compressors, amplifiers, and all other power-sucking goodies? This would leave your factory electrical system otherwise untouched, completely isolated from everything else, letting it do the important things like make your vehicle run. After all, the last thing anyone wants to do is replace the costly engine computer.

We found this new dual alternator and battery kit from Dave's DC Electric. This kit utilizes either a secondary factory alternator, or if needed, a highly dependable, high output model. Now we're talking... two separate alternators, two separate batteries... let the fun begin! Follow along as we show you the installation of this kit, and see just how simple and factory it looks under the hood. The addition of more power never was better than this!

Quality tools for a quality job! These are the basic tools which will be used to install the dual alternator kit PROPERLY! Even more important than proper tools is the experience of the hands; Dave's DC Electric prides upon many years of experience in the automotive electrical field.	The dual alternator kit from Dave's DC Electric. This kit includes 100% new parts; the 160 amp alternator, necessary brackets, hardware, drive belt, wire harness, and relay circuit. Unlike other companies on the market, Dave's provides very detailed instructions, as well as pre-installation and post-installation checklists to ensure proper operation. Dave's makes it as simple as possible for a moderately skilled mechanic to perform this installation.	The air horn is being removed from the throttle body in order to gain access to the drive belt for the factory alternator. Next, remove the upper plastic engine shroud from the motor. Once the top shroud is removed, the driver's side engine shroud can then be removed for slight modifications later.
Once the spring-loaded tensioner is loosened, the belt is easily removed from the pulleys.		When the belt is removed, the bottom right foot alternator bolt can be removed. This will allow you to rotate the alternator upward to make room for the secondary alternator.
Using the supplied brackets and hardware in the kit, the secondary alternator can now find a new home under the hood! Notice how the bracket ties the two alternators together; the lower mount of the second alternator finds its mount within the factory alternator mount cradle. Rest assured that Dave's kit uses the highest quality materials for the modifications.	Remember that driver's side engine shroud we removed earlier? It's now time to shave off the front mounting tab to allow clearance for the secondary alternator. Losing this tab will not affect integrity of this cover, because not only are the remaining mounting tabs still in tact, but it becomes structurally rigid once the upper engine shroud is replaced and secured to the motor.	Voila! Here is the result of the installation phase. Once the engine shrouds are replaced, and all mounting bolts to the alternators and mounts are tightened, the new belt can be routed on the pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the belt tensioner once everything is in place, and replace the air horn onto the throttle body. When you take a step back to marvel at your labors, this is what you should be looking at.
Don't take too long a break, because it's now time to make room for the secondary battery! This photo shows the location where the battery tray will be installed, just behind the engine coolant reservoir. The curved metal bracket you see attaching the fender to the cowl will be removed, and the battery tray mounts in the pocket area above the inner wheel well next to the fender. The Odyssey battery is retained on the tray with a supplied hold-down bracket.	With the secondary battery in place, the alternator can now be wired to it for charging duties. Wiring the relay seen here will not only activate the alternator once the motor is running, but also isolate the two charging systems. This is critical, because you cannot have two separate alternators sharing charging duties within themselves.	The relay can be mounted in any fashion, but here it is mounted directly to the firewall of the engine compartment. Dave uses 4-gauge power and ground cables to carry current from the secondary alternator to its battery. Notice how he routes and secures all wiring away from critical areas under the hood. Not only is this a good safety measure, it will promote many years of maintenance-free usage of your new charging system.
After double checking all installation points, it is now time to test it all out. Dave is quick to point out that both the primary and secondary batteries must be fully charged before the engine can be started. If not, the charging systems will show inaccurate readings, complicating the final process. With the motor running, a quick check of the digital multimeter shows the output of the secondary alternator at 14.74 volts. Perfecto! Again, a detailed post-installation checklist is provided by Dave's DC to help ensure that your newly installed charging system is working properly. This really takes the guesswork out of the testing phase.