HOW TO INSTALL A SUNROOF

Here is an article from Lowrider Edge. This article will give you detailed information on how to install a sunroof in a car that doesn't have one.

Artical Address: http://www.lowrideredge.com/tech/0109lre_installing_sunroof/

The stock steel roof on our Project Sentra SE was replaced with an electric sliding ragtop from Street Beat Customs in just more than three hours. The sunroof comes complete with everything that you'll need (except tools) to make quick work of the installation. Before beginning, check the completeness of the sunroof package using the provided parts list. Then, locate, mark and tape the proper position for the roof cutout template. Position the template flat against the roof and tape it making sure it's straight and there are no creases.

How To: Ragtop Let the Sunshine in Project Sentra By Dick DeLoach Photography: Dick DeLoach Everybody loves a convertible, but they're not always affordable from the factory, and if you happen to want/need a four-door instead of a coupe (like our Project Nissan Sentra SE) they're just not available period! Therefore, the only solution to letting the sunshine in is adding a sunroof. Street Beat's new electric folding ragtop makes it simple. The stock steel roof on our Project Sentra SE (left) was replaced with an electric sliding ragtop from Street Beat Customs in just more than three hours. There are several nice "Euro-style" sliding glass sunroofs available for an open-air feel. However, nothing comes closer to a real convertible than a huge 35x42-inch electric sliding ragtop roof, available from Street Beat Customs (in Phoenix, Arizona). The vinyl fabric roof, opening with both manual and electric power options, features classic European design updated to provide OEM quality and a convertible feel for modern cars. Street Beat offers an exclusive line of their own and world-famous Inalfa sunroofs (ragtop and sliding glass) that fit most vehicles and include complete do-it-yourself installation instructions, all mounting hardware, interior trim panels and electricals. The kit even includes a full-size paper template to show you exactly where to drill and cut the metal roof. The ragtop also has a terrific safety feature that stops the roof from closing if there is an obstruction in the opening, like your dog's head or your child's hand. A few power tools are needed for the installation, including an electric drill, heavy duty sabre saw or a "nibbler," which is what we used for cutting the roof sheet metal and roof ribs and an electric die grinder. Nothing that can't be bought at the average tool store or rented. A couple of screwdrivers and wrenches are required as well. We took our Sentra to Sounds, Suspension & More in Montclair, California, where Dave Jelen and owner "Bear" made quick work of the installation. Actually, it took a little more than three hours from start to finish, and these men are professionals. The kit went in easily, and the instructions were very thorough. The interior trim panels make the install look clean, but you can also "soft wrap" the headliner around the trim for more of a "factory" look to the roof (detailed instructions for that are also included). Follow the photos now as we show you how to let the sunshine in the easy way.

		Using a single-edge blade, carefully cut out the area of the paper template for the roof cut and draw the cut outline on the roof metal with a marking pen.		Drill the six holes as marked on the front of the template for the wind deflector, making sure not to damage the inside roof lining. Note: a "bit stop" can be used for safety.
Drill a "pilot hole" for the nibbler (or heavy duty sabre saw) inside the outline on the roof.				Using a nibbler or sabre saw carefully cut out the metal roof along the outline. Note: a die grinder can also be used to cut out the metal roof..
Carefully peel the roof metal away from the roof ribs and properly discard it.		This is what the roof looks like with the metal cut out. No turning back now!		Next the roof ribs must be cut out along the edge of the roof metal and removed.
Unplug and remove the interior light next.		Mark the hard headliner using the roof metal as a guide.		Using a razor knife, carefully cut out the hard headliner to match the roof cutout.
On the inside, lay 3/4-inch tape around the edge of the hard headliner as a guide and cut out the headliner along the outer edge of the tape, thus making the inside headliner cutout 3/4-inch larger than the roof metal cutout.		Use the die grinder or sabre saw to cut the ribs 3/4-inch smaller than the roof cutout as well.		Then grind off the edges of the roof cutout to remove any burrs.
Apply the protective foil strips, without creases, flush with the cutout edge of the roof, starting with the front strip. Then place the side strips flush with the cutout edge, overlapping with the front edge of the strip that has already been applied.		Place the wind deflector in the holes drilled earlier.		Using the special sealing washers and nuts provided, attach the wind deflector but do not tighten the nuts yet.
Carefully drop the sunroof into the cutout being careful not to dent the roof metal. Also make sure that the sealing rubber is correctly seated on the frame edge as this cannot be corrected after fitting.		Remove the "A" pillar cap and route sunroof motor wiring down the pillar and under the dash. Later, you will connect the wires to a verified constant 12-volt source and the ignition per wiring instructions.		Remove the two retaining screws from the motor unit on the frame and make sure that the motor can be slid in between the outer roof skin and the inside lining. Caution: Don't kink the black end tubes for the drive cables.
		Push the front clamp frame part in place and put the motor fastening screws in.		Put the rear clamp frame part on and screw in one each of the enclosed nuts onto the stay bolts. Then push the frame sides on. Attach with screws provided all the way around. Note: Do not place any screws into holes with labels stuck on them because the supports for the trim frame are fastened in those holes.
Place the supports in position with the upwardly flanged nose of the support engaging the gap between the mainframe and the clamping frame, attach with the fastening screws and tighten equally.		Connect the operating switch to the wiring loom and make sure that it works. Close the roof, adjust the wind deflector as needed and tighten the wind deflector nuts.		Fit the front trim cover, guiding the wire for the operating switch through the opening provided.
		With the roof fully open, fit the side and rear trim covers in place and attach them with the push-in fasteners provided.
Beginning in the middle at the rear, attach the edge protection (pinch welting) all the way around and trim the excess with wire cutting pliers.		The finished installation looks almost factory and opens up to let the sunshine in our Sentra.