Honda Civic Upgrading FAQ

Yet another artical form Procivic.com

Artical Address: http://www.procivic.com/pages-upgrading_faq/index.html

Answers to the Most Frequently Asked Questions About Upgrading

An example of a nicely done turbo Civic

This guide's purpose is to get your started in the right direction, so you can make educated decisions when buying your parts. It is meant for those who are fairly new to upgrading Civics (hey, let's face it, we were all there at one time or another). Since the Civic is one of the most modified cars in the world, there are literally thousands of upgrades to choose for it. For new comers, it is often difficult to choose from all theses options. This guide will hopefully make the process a little easier.

---

How do I get more power?
First off, unless you have a Civic Hybrid, you have to understand that all the power pushing you forward results from only the combustion of fuel. Basically, combustion is a chemical reaction where oxygen from the air and hydrocarbons from the fuel react to produce a lot of energy. The basic idea behind getting more power is getting more usable energy from the combustion taking place in each cylinder. There are three basic ways to accomplish this:

1. Add more fuel and air to each cylinder
2. Compress the air / fuel mixture even more
3. Ignite the mixture so it burns more efficiently (i.e. completely and at the correct time)

Needless to say, accomplishing this is much easier said than done. For example, as engine speed increases, it becomes harder and harder to get air in and exhaust out efficiently.

Fortunately, the aftermarket has done the research for us and has made it quite easy to add more power to your Civic. Civics (and Honda cars in general) are very well engineered and can accept a lot of power modifications without any decrease in reliability.

That said, there are some basic "bolt-on" parts that most people start with to gain power. Bolt-ons are parts that can be installed with just some simple tools (usually some wrenches and screwdrivers) and definitely don't require you to tear down your engine or weld anything. The most popular bolt-ons to start with for power are the air intake, headers, and exhaust, also known as I/H/E. These three parts will get your engine breathing better and produce a more aggressive engine sound.

Here's a quick chart that goes over all the part categories that relate to power:

Part Category & Example Parts	Description
Air Induction (air intake, throttle body, intake manifold)	Helps more air flow into your engine, causing your engine's computer to add more fuel, resulting in more power.
Forced Induction (turbocharger, supercharger, nitrous)	Pressurized systems that force A LOT of air into the engine, requiring much more fuel, and resulting in some big power gains. Nitrous is a little different in that it is not normal air, but nitrous oxide, which actually serves two functions: 1. It cools down the incoming air, resulting in a denser air mixture and 2. The nitrous oxide splits into nitrogen and oxygen during combustion. The extra oxygen means more fuel can be used during combustion, which results in more power.
Fuel System (fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator)	Allows more fuel to flow into the engine, and at a faster rate. Necessary whenever you need to add more fuel than your stock system can supply. Also, performance fuel injectors help to "atomize" the fuel better, which results in more efficient combustion.
Exhaust (headers, cat-back exhaust system, high-flow catalytic converter)	Each time fuel combusts, it results in high-pressure gases that need to escape. A well-tuned exhaust system allows them to escape quickly at all engine speeds. This allows your engine to run with less resistance, which results in more usable power to the wheels.
Engine Tuning (engine management system, cam gears)	After a certain amount of modifications, it becomes necessary to re-tune your engine's computer to work optimally and reliably. Tuning can yield significant power gains and is a MUST for heavily modified cars. This is ideally done at a dyno shop, which can actually measure the power your engine is producing.
Ignition System (spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor)	Provides more powerful and precisely timed sparks. This will cause the fuel / air mixture to be more completely and efficiently burned. Spark plugs also have the auxiliary function of helping remove heat from the combustion chamber.
Transmission (clutch, flywheel, limited slip differential)	On modified cars, allows more power to be transferred to the wheels. A limited slip differential (LSD) can provide you with better traction to both tires. Automatic transmission owners can look into upgrading their torque converters.
Engine Head (camshafts, valves, valve springs, retainers)	The "head", or cylinder head, is the top part of the engine that you see when you open your hood. This is where the most gains will be had for naturally aspirated (not forced induction) engines. Camshafts increase intake and exhaust airflow while valves, valve springs, and retainers support higher engine speeds and denser air mixtures.
Engine Block (connecting rods, bearings, head studs, pistons, sleeves)	For those with a lot of upgrades, these parts will make sure that your engine can handle the extra power. Performance pistons serve more than just a structural purpose though; they can change your compression ratio (i.e. how much the fuel / air mixture is compressed).
Cooling System (radiator, fans, oil cooler)	Keeps your modified engine running at optimum temperatures. If an engine runs too hot, performance suffers. Running too cold can hurt fuel economy and emissions, and lead to spark plug fouling. After some big upgrades, it's often a good idea to get a water temperature gauge to know how hot you're running.

To make all this power really work for you, lighten your car! A light car has better acceleration, cornering, and fuel economy. A lot of performance parts are lighter than your stock ones, but you can also buy body parts that will help save weight.

^Top

How do I choose the right body kit?
It really comes down to your budget and personal tastes on what looks good and what doesn't. All the body parts we sell are quality items and will fit your Civic just fine, but the cheaper ones are not going to have the spectacular fit, finish and look of the more expensive ones. A body part's price is also determined by what material it is made of. The material will determine how flexible, durable, and heavy the part is. Here is a breakdown of the common materials currently used:

Material Type	Description
Carbon Fiber	Made from weaved carbon and covered with a clear resin. Great looks and very popular, but can be expensive. Very light weight and great fitment, and you don't have to paint it!
Polyurethane	Thick, heavier resin-based polymer. Very flexible, great fitment and durability. Fairly expensive to produce.
Fiberglass	Very fine glass fibers. It is the least expensive material. Fiberglass is lightweight and very rigid - so it will break easier than the other materials but allows for more extreme styles. It's also the toughest to install.
Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP)	Essentially a polymer that is reinforced with fiberglass to allow better durability and more styles. It is the best (and most common) material in terms of quality for the price you pay. Most aftermarket body kits are made from this material.
ABS Plastic	Provides great flexibility, durability, and fitment. It is also fairly light, but very expensive. Therefore, it is not commonly used in aftermarket body kits.

Note: A polymer is basically a plastic (at least when talking about body kits).

Most body kits are just several different parts put together and sold as a single package. You can, if you want, mix and match anything (usually from the same manufacturer) and create your own kit! The advantage of buying a pre-made kit, however, is that you know it will all look good together.

Lastly, get a professional install - it will pay off! Make sure the installer checks for fitment before starting the install. For the flexible materials, like ABS plastic or polyurethane, ask for a flex agent to be put in the paint to help it resist cracking.

^Top

Will aftermarket parts void my warranty?
Fortunately, not in most circumstances. Under Federal Law (the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 to be specific) it is illegal for a dealer to deny you warranty coverage just because you installed an aftermarket part. To deny warranty, the dealer must prove the part to be the root of the specific problem you are requesting warranty for. Even then, they can only deny warranty for that specific problem, not for your whole car. Because aftermarket parts meet or exceed original equipment specifications, this normally only happens when the aftermarket part is improperly installed.

It is no secret that Honda itself wants to see the aftermarket succeed. Honda spends a lot of money promoting how their vehicles can be customized and upgraded. It is usually when a part is improperly installed or deliberately misused that warranties get denied. Just make sure to get a quality installation (or if you do it yourself, use all the correct tools and follow the directions) and you should have no problems with any of the parts you buy from us.

^Top

Will installing aftermarket parts cause me to fail smog tests?
Many of the parts we sell are 50-state smog legal, which means they have been granted an Exemption Order (EO) by the California Air Resource Board (C.A.R.B). Since California is the strictest state in terms of smog laws, a part that is "C.A.R.B Exempt" is smog legal in all 50 states. Parts that are not 50-state legal may be 49-state legal because they meet the EPA smog requirements but not California's. Some parts (such as test pipes) are not smog legal at all. Just because a part is not smog legal doesn't mean it pollutes more; it could be that the manufacturer has just not taken the time or money to get it approved.

You might be surprised to hear that some of the most powerful parts are smog legal. For example, the Edelbrock turbo kits for the Civic are 50-state smog legal! All non-engine related parts and accessories are smog legal by definition (like suspension, brakes, etc.). Some parts, like camshafts and pistons, cannot be visually inspected by smog testers and will only cause smog failure if they add significantly to emissions.

Here's a helpful link you can use the check any aftermarket part to see if it is 50-state smog legal: http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php

^Top

I want a very quiet exhaust, any recommendations?
The APEXi WS2 is probably your best bet.

^Top

What engine / chassis do I have?
Find your Civic in our garage! Once you select your particular year, submodel, and trim level, all the info will appear. Remember theses are U.S. specs only. Japanese models have different codes and, although very similar, have some important differences (like being right-hand drive).

^Top

What's an engine swap?
As the name suggests, you take out your whole engine and swap it for another (hopefully more powerful) engine. This is typically done with used Japanese crate motors. Interestingly, Japan smog laws say that a car is "past its smog limit" after a certain mileage, regardless off how much it actually pollutes. This results in a large number of extra motors that are still in decent condition. Engine swaps can be expensive, but are very popular.
Unfortunately, it is very hard to pass smog with an engine swap. In general, the engine must be of the same year or newer than your chassis. JDM engines must be used only as direct replacements for their U.S. counterpart. The swapped engine must also be the same OBD (On-Board Diagnostic) version as your current engine and use a U.S. spec computer. There are several other requirements, but you get the point.

^Top

How do I choose the correct suspension setup?
A lot of Civic owners don't understand just how much of a difference a good suspension setup can make. Choosing the best setup for you depends on how stiff of a ride you want, and how low to the ground you want your Civic to sit. In general, a stock suspension will have the softest ride but will feel very sloppy when taking corners at speed. Most of the aftermarket suspension parts will stiffen your ride, and this increases handling performance. There are several different categories of suspension parts to choose from:

Suspension Part	What it Does
Coilovers	Replaces your stock springs with a unit that has easily adjustable ride height. Coilovers, in general, offer a stiffer ride that a normal shock / spring setup. "Full" coilovers come with shocks and are whole, self-contained replacements for your stock springs and shocks, which makes them even easier to install. Full coilovers are really the way to go if you have the money - the springs and shocks in them are designed to work perfectly together.
Shocks / Struts	Dampens the movement of your springs (prevents your car from bouncing up and down). It is not recommended to use stock shocks with aftermarket springs. Your stock shocks will blow or wear out very fast because they cannot dampen the stronger aftermarket springs very well. If you have stock springs, aftermarket shocks will offer a tighter, less "bouncy" ride. Struts are basically the same as shocks except they function as a stressed part of the suspension. In general, struts allow for a more compact suspension design. Struts are used in the newer Civics that employ MacPherson-style suspensions in the front.
Stabilizer Bars	Reduces body roll and stiffens your car's overall structure. Several different types are available, including tie bars, strut tower bars, and sway bars. Some types of bars also reduce body flex, which is the tendency for a car's body to temporarily warp (change shape) under extreme forces.
Bushings	An inexpensive way to really get rid of the sloppy feel of a stock suspension. Provides a noticeable increase in suspension response. Especially popular are the shifter bushings, as they provide firmer shifts for manual transmissions.
Alignment Kits	Corrects the way your wheels and tires contact the ground. If you drop your car more than about 1 inch you should consider getting a camber kit. This will allow you to adjust your alignment to prevent your wheels from pointing inwards (called negative camber). The main side effects of bad alignment are excessive, uneven tire wear and reduced forward traction.

To lower you car, either buy a set of coilovers or get some lowering springs. In general, we don't recommend more than about a 2.8" drop on the front or back. When you lower your Civic, keep in mind that OEM shocks and some aftermarket shocks are "position sensitive" and will not work well with vehicles that have been lowered too much. Koni shocks are one exception - they are NOT position sensitive and will work with any sort of lowering spring as long as you don't bottom out. Of course, if you have the money, an adjustable full coilover system is the way to go.

^Top

How do I choose the right size for new wheels and tires?
This is a tough question to directly answer because it depends on your Civic's year and how much it has been lowered. In general, these are the recommended maximum wheel sizes (in inches, height x width):

• 4th - 6th Generation Civics (1988 - 2001): 17 x 7.5
• 7th Generation Civics (2001-2005): 18 x 7.5
• 8th Generation Civics (2006+): 19 x 8

Keep in mind these guidelines are for stock suspensions only. Using the maximum size may require "rolling" your fenders. You will also have to be more conservative if you're lowered. Remember that very large wheels will also hinder your Civic's performance because of the added weight of the wheels. Each extra pound on your wheel really does make a difference because it adds to both the rotational inertia of the wheel and the vehicle's total "unsprung" weight. Unsprung weight consists of parts that are not held up by the suspension; increasing unsprung weight prevents your suspension from performing at its best.

Your selection of tire size also plays a role in fitment. Here is a quick overview of how tires are currently measured:

Sample Tire: 195/55ZR15 89Y

Measurement	What it Means
195	The section width. This is how wide the tire's contact patch is (in millimeters) when inflated.
55	The aspect ratio. This is the ratio between the tire's section height and section width. Section height is just the height of the rubber you see around the wheel, multiply it by 2 to get the total vertical space that the rubber takes up.
Z	The letter Z is present here only if the tire's true speed rating is in excess of 149 mph. The old way of measuring tires actually had the tire's speed rating here. Tire buyers got used to seeing the "ZR" on a tire as meaning "high performance" and so tire manufacturers have kept it here eventhough it is not necessary. Note that, just because a Z is present here, it does not mean that the tire's true speed rating is a Z - it could be a W or Y, which are both ratings above 149 mph.
R	The R stands for Radial, which is how the tire is constructed. Don't worry about this because almost all tires are now radial.
15	The inside diameter of the tire. Always match this with your wheel diameter.
89Y	The "Service Description", which is a load index number combined with a speed rating. With Civics and other imports, you usually don't have to concern yourself with the load index as it is always sufficient for how the tire is intended to be used. The higher the load index, the more weight a tire can hold. For example, a load index of 85 means each tire can hold 1135 lbs and a load index of 91 indicates 1356 lbs per tire. The speed rating is the tire's maximum recommended speed. Some common ratings are: H = 130 mph, V = 149 mph, W = 168 mph, Y = 186 mph, Z = 149+ mph (a Z rating technically means "above 149 mph" but in practice it usually means "somewhere above 186 mph". It is best to consult the tire manufacturer to get the true maximum recommended speed on Z rated tires.)

Note: To convert millimeters to inches, divide by 25.4.

One easy way to upgrade your wheels/tires (if you don't use our wheel/tire size calculator) is using the "plus sizing" system. Plus sizing is a technique to reliably upgrade your wheels/tires so that the total height of your wheel + tire remains roughly the same (within 3%). This will prevent rubbing, maintain your speedometer accuracy, and prevent brake failure. If you follow this system your total wheel + tire height will be within 3% of your stock wheel + tire height, and you will not have any problems. The plus sizing system is very simple and goes as follows:

Plus 1:
Increase wheel diameter by 1 inch
Increase tire section width by 10mm
Decrease tire aspect ratio by 10 points

Plus 2:
Increase wheel diameter by 2 inches
Increase tire section width by 20mm
Decrease tire aspect ratio by 20 points

So if you had 195/55ZR15 tires and 15" wheels, a Plus 2 upgrade would consist of 17" wheels with 215/35ZR17 tires. The plus sizing system, however, does not work accurately above 2 sizes. It is also not recommended to go below an aspect ratio of 35, as this will not provide enough "cushion" for your wheels. As far as tire width goes, you should choose a tire that is between 0.8 and 2.0 inches wider than your wheel. Wider tires will "bulge" more and offer more protection for your wheels, but will also increase the chance of rubbing if you're lowered or using very large wheels.

Lastly, here are some other concepts that are important in wheel/tire selection:

Term	Definition
Hubcentric / Lugcentric	These are the two ways to center wheels when you mount them. Lugcentric uses the lug nuts themselves to center the wheel, and is an older technique. Hubcentric is the newer, better technique which centers the wheel around the hub. Most aftermarket wheels make the hub hole (centerbore) oversized and come with adapter rings (hubcentric rings) to center the wheel on the hub. Hubcentric rings are either metal or high temperature plastic. If you don't use them, your wheels may vibrate.
Offset	This is how far the mounting surface of your wheel is from the "centerline" of the wheel. A more positive offset will cause your wheel to mount closer to the inside of your wheel wells. For Civics, it is a good idea to stay within the +35-45mm offset range when upgrading (thin wheels will be closer to +35mm, wide wheels will be closer to +45mm). A wrong offset can cause rubbing problems, either on the fender (offset too low) or on the inside of the wheel well (offset too high).
Bolt Pattern (PCD)	Specified by the number of wheel bolts and the diameter (a.k.a. PCD or Pitch Circle Diameter) of the imaginary circle made by connecting those wheel bolts. For Civics, if you have 4 bolts then its 4 x 100mm, 5 bolts is 5 x 114.3mm. These are standard sizes for all years.
Wheel Spacers	Wheel spacers can help with rubbing problems on the inside of the wheel well by pushing your wheel out more. This can also create a "wide look" that some people like. You'll also have to get longer wheel studs to assure proper mounting of the wheel on the wheel spacer.

For installation, tighten each lug nut to about 80 lb-ft of torque, using a criss-cross pattern. For new wheels, re-tighten each lug nut after about 100 miles of driving.

^Top

Any other helpful tips?
Yes, here are several more simple tips that will keep your Civic running at peak power and reliability for years to come:

1. Keep your tires properly inflated. You'd be surprised what an affect bad tire pressure can have on overall performance. Use your owner's manual recommended tire pressure because optimal tire pressure is based on your vehicle's weight, not the tire. If you run under-inflated, you'll notice the side wear increases; over-inflated tires show more wear in the middle. The best time to check tire pressure is in the morning before you drive more than a few miles. You should re-check your tire pressure every month or so, or when the ambient temperature significantly changes (winter & summer).

2. Start using synthetic oil. It is best to switch to synthetic after your car has 3000 or more miles on it. Contrary to popular belief, synthetic oil is perfectly fine to use in older cars, even with more than 100,000 miles on them. If your car already leaks oil though, or has worn seals, using synthetic oil may cause slightly more leakage because of the oil's superior flow properties. We consider Red Line to be the best synthetic out there, but there are plenty of other good brands such as Mobil 1.

3. Get a good quality oil filter. Two good ones that are commonly available are the Purolator PureONE (commonly available) and WIX. We recommend to stay away from FRAM filters just because the construction quality is not as good. A good filter will enhance oil flow and filter out more contaminants.

4. Get iridium spark plugs. Some newer Civics already come with iridium plugs. Iridium plugs give better fuel economy, increased power/acceleration and better throttle response. They last for a long time and are very easy to install. Just remember NOT to gap them - they come pre-gapped from the factory.

5. Change you transmission fluid about every 4 oil changes, or 16,000 miles. This will help preserve your gears and synchros, especially if you drive hard. Royal Purple makes transmission fluids that are of extremely high quality.

6. Get a set of magnetic drain plugs for your transmission and engine. Theses little things help to pick up a lot of metal particles that may be floating around in your transmission and engine. This will decrease engine / transmission wear and tear significantly. Make sure to clean off the drain plug after each fluid change.

7. Don't run a higher octane fuel without a good reason. Use the octane specified in your owner's manual unless you have modified your engine's compression or power output significantly. Most Civics (except for the Si models) are designed to run best with 87 octane fuel. Octane is simply a fuel's ability to resist detonation, meaning that it can withstand more heat before it ignites. High octane fuel is only suited for use in engines that create high cylinder pressures and a lot of heat. Many people think they can gain more power just by using higher octane fuel than specified in their owner's manual. As long as the fuel does not pre-ignite, any grade of fuel will produce the same amount of power (again, assuming a mostly stock engine).
Note: There is one exception to this. If your engine has a lot of carbon buildup from years of use and you are "pinging" (a.k.a. knocking or detonating), using higher octane may help to alleviate the problem.

8. Use a fuel system cleaner. Despite what you might think from the previous two tips, it IS a good idea to use fuel system cleaners once in awhile (say every 6-8 months). There is not quite enough cleaner present in MOST gasolines to keep your valves and injectors from building up gunk. Some Honda dealers even do this as part of regular maintenance now.