Custom Rear Deck

Yo Yo Yo It's ya boi. I was feeling kind of generous today so I decided to hit y'all up with two post on the same night. This one is also from the ppl at Caraudiomag.com. It's about how to make a custom rear deck for you car. Here Goes

http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/caep_0711_custom_rear_deck/index.html

Rear Deck From Scratch - How To

writer: Jason Ludwig Rodz

Even if your ride doesn't come with factory speakers in the rear deck, it doesn't mean you shouldn't put some aftermarket drivers back there. Building a baffle is relatively simple. All you need are some basic ingredients (e.g., MDF, fleece, resin, body filler and vinyl) and some tools like a saw and router. Here we'll show you how to build a custom panel from scratch for CA&E's classic BMW project car.

The original rear deck panel on this Bimmer had already been removed. That's good news for us as it cuts down on demolition time. As you can see, the metal tray that separates the cabin from the trunk allows plenty of depth for a set of coaxials.	Before continuing, we have to unbolt and remove the seats. Here we got rid of the headrests (who needs 'em?), which means getting busy with an airsaw. The metal brackets are sawed off on both sides.	With the area clear, we can make a cardboard template for the base.
Using the cardboard template, we cut out the base from 51/48" MDF. Check for fit back in the vehicle.	Sand the edges of the MDF before routing it to get rid of imperfections and ensure a smooth routing job. Also, knocking down the big stuff with 50-grit now cuts down on sanding later, when it will be more difficult to sand the beveled edge.	For the sake of good looks, we'll route a 45-degree bevel all around the edges of the piece.
Next, cut the mounting rings for the speakers from a piece of 31/44" MDF.	Router the edges to ensure they're the same and finish nicely. Create plates to match out of 11/42" MDF (not pictured). Use these to protect the rings later when coating the rear deck with resin.	Marking guidelines of the centerpoints on the MDF base makes it easier to center the two rings where we want them.
I like to tilt speakers at a 30-degree angle <>	Sand the sharp edges of the bevel all around to soften the shape.	Notice that there's a gap in between the rear deck and the seat. Fill this in with another piece of MDF. Again, grab some cardboard and create a template of the area before cutting out the MDF.

Attach the two filler pieces to the underside of the rear deck with angle brackets and screws.	To smooth everything out as well as stiffen it up, smear on some fiberglass reinforced body filler. All the gaps should be filled in when you're finished.	We'll also add the Rodz logo in the center of the piece. You can create your own logo, use a manufacturer logo or skip this part entirely. Cut out a piece of 11/42" MDF in the correct shape. Also, cut out a matching plate like those for the speaker rings.
Again, make a bevel by routing with a 45-degree bit and create stilts with the tops cut at a 30-degree angle. Glue and nail the stilts and logo backing to the base.	The rear deck gets its flowing shape from fleece, which we'll stretch across the MDF base and stiffen up with resin. Before attaching the fleece, get out those plates for the speaker rings and logo. Pre-drill holes so you can match them up through the fleece later. When attaching fleece, start from the center and work your way out as you stretch the material tight. Staple it down securely on the underside. Here we placed the staples approximately 0.25" apart so that the material won't stretch.	Cover your pre-drilled plates with blue 3M masking tape and screw them to the rings underneath the fleece. Here is where pre-drilling comes in handy!
Mix up some resin and apply it to the fabric. Be generous - soak the fabric about 95 percent through.	This is how it should look after you soak the fleece with resin. Let it cure overnight.	In order to smooth out all the rough stuff, sand the cured fleece with a 50-grit sanding disc in a die grinder.
Remove the plates and cut out the fleece in the mounting rings. Continue to sand around the cutouts before moving to a 200-grit sanding disc. We need to get the fleece as smooth as possible, because even small imperfections will show through the vinyl.	Spray upholstery glue over the fleece and smooth on the vinyl. As with the fleece, start in the center and work your way to the sides, stretching just a little bit.	Now, break out the heat gun. You'll need to warm the vinyl in order to smoothly pull it over the sharp edges. Heat it just enough so it's pliable, especially when you're working on the corners, but don't make it so hot that it melts.
Staple around it on the underside as you did with the fleece. When you're finished, all the vinyl should be completely glued down.	Now cut out the holes in the speaker rings and test fit the speakers. Pre-drill the MDF when mounting them. You can also now attach your logo. Our logo was water jet cut from 11/416" polished stainless steel. It's glued on with epoxy.	Your last step is attaching the rear deck to the vehicle. In the front, screws hold it in the corners, while aftermarket brackets fasten it in the rear. Now try it out in your ride.